STAGES OF MAKING A DESIGNER ‘LEHENGA’

aman mathur designer lehenga

DESIGNER ‘LEHENGA’

 

Designer lehenga is steadily becoming first client’s first choice as the availability and variety are increasing with every passing year. But there’s a special statement design choice of a designer makes his/ her designs much aspired for than others. Designer ‘lehenga’ is one of most liked assignments of a designer. as it takes out all the creative, logical, economical & technical skills of a designer. Everyone presently demands customized outfits which they do not see anyone else wearing. And designer ‘lehenga’ being one of the most sensitive topics for fashion fetish individuals.

Fashion is part of our culture, and it’s about more than just a pretty dress. Joan Small

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STAGES OF MAKING DESIGNER ‘LEHENGA’

STAGE 1: CONCEPTUALIZATION

 

 

 

This first stage involves the basic interaction between the customer and designer & then designer and his/ her team. This includes discussions about the following aspects:

 

 

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  1. Occasion: Designer ‘lehenga’ is a generic term who’s variety differs according to the occasion it is being worn. Like a marriage ‘lehenga’ would be completely different from an engagement one.

       

 

  1. Individual’s choice: People have different choices when it comes to fashion, and especially when we talk about an ethnic wear like designer ‘lehenga’. So a designer firstly considers the comfort zone of the customer & her choice of the silhouette.

 

 

  1. Season: The time of the year plays a major role once when we are designing a dress. As the fabric usage, embroidery weight & content varies in each season. A winter season ‘lehenga’ can accommodate a lot of layers & heavy fabric. Whereas, when we design a summer season ‘lehenga’, designer tries to keep it of nominal fabric weight and less heavy.

 

  1. Figure construction/ body type: The designer ‘lehenga’ is majorly dependent on the type of body an individual is having. There are different cuts and fits for the different body structures. For eg., A designer ‘lehenga’ for an hourglass body type would be completely different from a designer ‘lehenga’ for an inverted triangle body type.

 

  1. Personality: Different individuals have very different preferences & choices in their clothing. Some very chick personality girls may afford to wear a backless ‘lehenga’ blouse with lots of bling in it. Whereas, a lady with more class choices would prefer fabrics like raw silk, which are more elegant and less blingy.

 

  1. Budget: Money is the basic token of in current scenario. So everything revolves around the kind of budget fit a client is having. And designer needs to give the best within the budget received.

 

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STAGE 2: FABRIC SELECTION

 

 

Fabric being the base and the initial ingredient of any dress, so it’s very important to get it right as per the requirement.  This is further categorized into following:

 

 

  1. Correct fabric for the concept chosen: Every design and cut demands a specific fabric to be used. For eg.,  A ball gown needs to have a stiff fabric or a lesser stiff fabric with ken-ken beneath it.

 

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  1. Dying in the desired colors: The Color theme is heavily dependent upon the kind of fabric chosen. Since there’s a huge continuum of colors so not every fabric can reflect the similar color once dyed.

 

 

  1. Fabric manipulations (if needed): This includes changing the surface of the fabric by using various techniques like pleating, quilting, knitting etc. This not only gives volume to the fabric but also creates a completely unique individuality in the dress it is being used in.

 

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STAGE 3: DESIGN PROCESS

 

This stage involves the real major contribution of a designer in which he/ she decides to shape the garment would have. In this process, a designer takes into consideration the following aspects:

 

 

  1. Cut off the ‘lehenga’: Every ‘lehenga’ has a different and a very unique cut. And since more seamless the product is, more effective the design would be. In order to achieve it, perfect cutting of ‘lehenga’ is very important.

 

 

  1. Fit: Depending upon the body type and structure, the fitting of ‘lehenga’ or any dress changes. Thus a designer needs to maintain a desirable fit in the ‘lehenga’.

 

 

  1. Embroidery content: At the time of cutting and initial designing the embroidery is also finalized, as there are certain pieces that need to be embroidered according to the cutting and fit to be achieved.  

 

 

 

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STAGE 4: EMBROIDERY PATTERN & TYPE

 

 

When we talk about ‘lehenga’ or any ethnic wear, the major thing that attracts the eye balls is the embroidery and then the cut & design. Indian market & clients are still much fascinated by heavy embroidery work rather than flamboyant cuts and drapes.

 

 

Following are certain kind of works, which designer needs to finalize in order to go ahead:

 

 

  1. Zardozi
  2. Cutwork
  3. Silk thread
  4. Mirror work
  5. Machine embroidery
  6. Handwork
  7. Other thread work

 

 

 

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STAGE 5: CUTTING PATTERN

 

Cut off the attire plays a major role when it comes to getting the right kind if fitting and fall. For a ‘lehenga’ it’s very crucial to have the perfect fall and fitting as there are a lot of things dependent upon it. This also varies as per the occasion and personality of the individual wearing it.

 

 

Some of the cuts/ styles are:

 

  1. Bridal cut
  2. Casual ‘lehenga’
  3. Fish cut
  4. Straight cut
  5. Flares
  6. Skater
  7. ‘A’ line
  8. Asymmetric cut
  9. Layering
  10. Lacework

 

 

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STAGE 6: TO ‘KARKHANA’

 

The final decision to cut, design, to be embroidered cloth and other details, is then sent to the ‘karkhana’ for bringing out the thought process into reality. This stage involves the working on the cloth and creating other details which are required as per the design.

 

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STAGE 7: STITCHING

 

 

The final embroidered fabric received from the ‘karkhanas’ are then stitched into its final form of dress/ ‘lehenga’. This stage usually happens in the fashion houses as there the progress remains monitored by designer & his/ her assistants.

These stages require a lot of creative interference as this stage defines the final look of the dress is made.

 

 

 

 

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STAGE 8: FINISHING & FITTING

 

This is the last stage where the final product is tried on the client for any last moment touches & fittings.

Post which a designer garment becomes ready !!!

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Customize your dress Aman Mathur Fashion Designer

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